Te Tai-tokerau, or Northland, is the only subtropical region in Aotearoa. Locals refer to it as the winterless north, making it a great place to visit year round with longer summers and milder winters than the rest of the country. In summer the place is heaving with locals and tourists alike, all soaking up the sun and enjoying the many beaches and waterways on offer. We visited in May and got to experience most of the hot spots without the crowds. Even though it was autumn, the weather was great!
The slightly cooler weather of May made it the perfect time to go on some epic hikes in the region without working up too much of a sweat. Yet it was still warm enough to dive into the water and go snorkelling in some of the best spots in all of New Zealand. On the odd day there is a little rain, but there is still plenty to see and do indoors here with some great museums, art galleries and even some epic glowworm caves to visit!
Northland is full of culture and incredible outdoor spaces. With so many things to see and do, it was hard to make a definitive list. So these are our favourite activities from our month up here. They all help you to soak up some sun and connect to the rugged coastlines, Kauri forests, cascading waterfalls and incredible history of this beautiful region.
Be sure to check out our Instagram to see more epic things to do in Northland!
Ohakiri Pa Or St Paul’s Rock
Sitting proudly above the Whangaroa Harbour is a rocky volcanic plug known as St Paul’s Rock. You can climb to the very top of the rock and witness the views it has out over the harbour and countryside of Whangaroa, but you do need a head for heights and some decent fitness to get there. You know it’s a proper rock climb when there are chains installed on the rock itself to help with the scramble up to the top. The chains definitely help, and there are plenty of footholds to get you up there, but don’t do this one in the rain; it would be very slippery when wet. It’s a short climb to the top at only 720 m one way, but the incline is steep with a 100 m elevation gain.
As you are making your way up the grassy slope to the rocky outcrop, you’ll notice some shells in the soil around you, known as ‘midden’ or ‘shell refuse’ left by Māori who lived here in the past. These shells speak to the history of this place, making it even more special to experience. Once you do reach the top, you have incredible panoramic views out over the many bays and inlets of the region. In a way this little hike is a teaser for the views you will get at Kairara Rocks. It’s also a great way to experience similar views without the arduous hike that awaits you on the Kairara Rocks track.
Perfect Day Cruise With Dive! Tutukaka
Poor Knights Islands are home to an abundance of marine life and the world’s largest sea cave! A trip out there with Perfect Day Cruise lets you experience both. The islands are a marine and nature reserve with stunning coastal cliffs and archways. After a boat cruise out to the islands the team anchors the boat and lets you explore the area on your own with the option of kayaks, stand-up paddleboards or snorkelling. We spent most of our time in the water snorkelling. We loved seeing the fish and different types of seaweed but have snorkelled on the Ningaloo Reef and found this to not be as vibrant as the coral reefs there. Don’t get us wrong, we had an abundance of fish swimming with us and still had a great time; there is just less coral than we have snorkelled with in the past.
We especially loved getting to swim into the smaller sea caves! Once we were out of the water and well-fed and dried, the cruise part of the day commenced with a tour through the world’s largest sea cave and around the islands, seeing the many sea archways formed by the cliffs of the islands. It was a great day on the water. If you’d like to know more about the entire trip with Perfect Day Cruise, we wrote an honest review about it here.
If you are visiting in summer, be sure to book well in advance, as tours fill up quickly. In the shoulder season there are less frequent tours run, but they are often not booked out. Either way it pays to book online before you get to Tutukaka to avoid disappointment.
Te Rerenga Wairua & Cape Reinga Lighthouse
Te Rerenga Wairua is an incredibly important place to visit on any Northland trip. The area itself is of great cultural significance for Māori. It is here that Māori spirits travel to make their journey to the land of their ancestors Hawaiiki-A-Nui. For this reason it is considered to be the most spiritually significant place in Aotearoa, and as such there are tikanga (protocols) to follow to respect this tāpu (sacred) place when you visit.
Please do not consume any food here or take food on the walk with you out to the lighthouse. It is also important to stay on the paths provided and show respect for this incredibly important place. This is also the northernmost point of Aotearoa that you can access, with the iconic Cape Reinga Lighthouse sitting proudly at the top of the cliffs, watching out over the ocean. It’s a beautiful place to visit with stunning coastal views. The spiritual significance is a strong presence as you walk down the quiet paths, listening to the wind and the waves. It truly feels special to be welcomed here and to experience the raw beauty of the coast.
Try A Paua Pie
A must-do in our opinion when you are in Northland is to get at least one paua pie. But honestly once you’ve had one you’ll be going back for more! There are plenty of places to try a paua pie, but we opted for the Container Cafe in Houhora. It’s up there as one of the best pie places in New Zealand, and their paua pie is the best of the lot! A deliciously flaky pastry surrounding a rich warm filling to create this humble homemade pie that warms up your belly and your soul. Filled with the most deliciously decadent creamy sauce and melt-in-your-mouth bites of Aotearoa’s famous paua.
You know the incredibly incandescent shells that are used in carvings and jewellery alike throughout New Zealand? Well, the humble-looking paua pie tastes even better than these shells look! Once you’ve eaten one, you’ll have experienced the entire paua from meat to shell. Which is pretty cool if you ask us.
Camp At The Northernmost DOC Site In Aotearoa
Taputaputa campground is just a 5-minute drive from Cape Reinga. It’s a gorgeous spot nestled in a little valley with a calm lagoon to swim in and stunning coastal views. There is even a little river that runs out to the ocean, making this already peaceful place that much more tranquil and relaxing.
Being the northernmost campground in Aotearoa, it is a great place to stay whilst you are seeing the many wonders of the tippy top of the North Island. It’s not an overly large campground, so it definitely pays to book this one in advance, especially if you are travelling in summer. At just $18 per adult per night it’s a great spot to relax after a day of sightseeing at the top of Northland.
Te Paki Sand Dunes
If I can give you one piece of advice for visiting Te Paki, it’s to not come when it’s windy… The sand hurts when it’s windy! Although the moody skies and watching the sand blow off the tops of distant dunes was still pretty cool. As you can tell, we visited the dunes when it wasn’t the best weather. We didn’t get rained on, but it was very windy. The sand-board hire wasn’t an option on the day we went, presumably because of the weather. We tried to slide down the dunes on Tiff’s yoga mat, but that didn’t really work. However, visiting just to admire the vastness of these dunes and seeing them drop and rise in every direction was well worth it.
We had the place almost to ourselves, and once we walked behind a little rise in one of the dunes, it really did feel like we were alone experiencing this vast sandy desert. If it weren’t for the cold, we could have believed we were in another country, somewhere like Australia, not the wet, lush green country we had come to know New Zealand to be. It was just really cool!
Visit The Glowworms At Waipu Caves
Whoever said the best things in life are free has clearly taken a trip to Waipu Caves.
Did somebody say free caves with glowworms?! Yes, these caves are self-guided and completely free to enter. We are talking about an epic cave with a watery floor and a vast, starry cave roof filled with glow worms. You’ll want good shoes and a torch to do this one. And no, your phone light isn’t going to cut it. Get yourself either a head torch or a handheld torch so you can really see where you are going. The torch is also great to take in all the cave formations, with some impressive stalactites and a river flowing through the cave system. Once you have taken in your surroundings, be sure to turn off your torch and marvel at the glow-worms above.
There is a paid cave tour that is run in a different area close by if you are super keen to see some more cave features and be guided through some man-made paths on a tour. We don’t particularly like cave tours, as we like to take our time and prefer exploring without the paths. That being said, if we weren’t on such a tight budget when we were in Northland, we definitely would have done the guided cave system as well as the free one. But whichever option you choose, it’s well worth checking out at least one of the caves, if not both!
Wonder At Tāne Mahuta
There is an abundance of Kauri forests in Northland. The region is well known for them, but there is one tree that towers above the rest and holds a special place in the hearts of those who know it. Tāne Mahuta is the largest living Kauri tree in the world. At approximately 2000 years old and a staggering 51.5 metres tall, this tree has seen so much over its years and holds a lot of wisdom.
Visiting is a truly special experience. After cleaning your shoes at one of the cleaning stations, you’ll walk along raised boardwalks through lush bush to reach the foot of this giant Kauri tree. Here you will find some beautiful benches to sit and take in the enormity of Tāne Mahuta. It’s a rather spiritual place, with all those that visit respecting nature, talking in hushed tones and giving reverent looks at this marvellous tree and its surrounding bush.
Learn About The History Of Aotearoa At The Waitangi Treaty Grounds
An absolute must-do when visiting Northland, but also when visiting Aotearoa, New Zealand, is to visit the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. The treaty grounds are often referred to as the birthplace of New Zealand. Visiting is in our opinion crucial to truly understanding the history of the country and how it exists and functions in the present day. We both really enjoyed our visit here, especially getting a guided tour through the grounds. Our tour guide was incredibly friendly and so full of knowledge.
Whilst I had already learnt a lot about the Treaty of Waitangi, especially in how it pertains to the current healthcare landscape of Aotearoa, Nathan didn’t really know much about how the treaty came to be or how it shaped the past and present in New Zealand. Seeing Nathan get a better understanding of the country and the people in it just showed how vital it is for tourists and visitors to come to Waitangi and learn about the cultural history of this incredible country. But not only that, it’s a place that everyone who visits and lives in New Zealand should experience.
Our one regret when we visited was that we didn’t book the Hāngī and Concert Tour. This is because it wasn’t running when we visited, as it only runs from October through April. Be sure to time your visit for this tour so you can eat some delicious Hāngī after spending time at the grounds learning all about the history of New Zealand and the Treaty of Waitangi.
Visit The Oldest Town In New Zealand
Kororāreka, or Russell, was established as a town in the 1830s, making it the oldest town in New Zealand. You can either drive out here or catch a short ferry ride across the water from Paihia for a great beach town day trip. We opted for the ferry ride on a beautiful sunny day. Make sure you have plenty of time to wander here, as there is actually quite a bit to do in this cute little town. They have an indie bookshop, which, of course, we visited!
There are a lot of historic buildings and businesses that are still running to this day too. Like the Duke of Marlborough, which was the first licensed pub in all of New Zealand, operating since 1827! We had lunch here and loved how much history has been preserved in the decorations. The highlight was definitely the menu with modern and traditional food melding together to create an incredibly delicious dining experience. The Hāngi fried potatoes and the Hāngi pineapple fritters were our favourites. And Tiff doesn’t even like pineapple!
Catch At Least One Sunrise
On one hand, we absolutely love a good sunrise. The feeling of being up before everyone else, watching the day softly start to brighten the horizon whilst the birds begin to wake, fills you with a calm excitement for the day ahead and the endless ways it can unfold. On the other hand, to get this feeling, you need to get up ridiculously early, and we are very much not early risers. We will, however, make the concerted effort to get up early and enjoy the sunrise when the view is absolutely on point. And believe me when I say this is achievable pretty much anywhere on the East Coast of Northland.
The sunrise spot we picked was a quiet one, on top of a rather steep hill, looking out to the watery horizon of Matauri Bay. We camped here the night before, so we only had to stumble out of the van and across the campground to the start of the short but steep climb to the top of the hill. It was dark and quiet but so worth the effort for the view! We then had the rest of the day to beach hop our way a little further up the coast before parking up for the night.
Check Out Some Of The Best Waterfalls In The Country
There are some incredible waterfalls in Aotearoa. A lot of these can be found either in the Catlins or Northland. So if waterfalls are your thing, then be sure to hit up both regions. We spent a good month chasing waterfalls in Northland and managed to see all 15 that can be found in the region. We wrote a blog post here ranking them all!
But of the 15 stunning waterfalls, Waianiwaniwa (or Rainbow Falls), Otuihau Whangārei Falls and Charlie’s Rock were our top three. So if you are a little pressed for time and can’t quite fit in all 15, then be sure to at least see those 3. They are all a little different and incredibly impressive. On the plus side, they are all super easy to get to with just a short walk, making them even easier to enjoy for all walking/hiking levels.
Explore The Many Beaches & Bays Of The Area
Northland is often referred to as the Winterless North by Kiwis. It’s the tropical region of New Zealand and is well known as the place to be if you love a good beach! We aren’t talking any old beach either; we are talking beautiful golden-white sand with turquoise waters and lush pounamu-green forests surrounding the pristine bays. These are tropical beaches to the max! Almost around every turn in the coast, you’ll find another little bay popping up with some rolling hills framing the sides of the rolling waves. There are so many options for beaches here that it’s honestly hard to name them all.
Some of our favourites in Northland were the numerous little bays in Whangārei Harbour, Mahinepua Bay, Maitai Bay, Tapotupotu Bay and the iconic Ninety Mile Beach. We found the best way to explore the bays and beaches was to just go on vibes and turn into a beach whenever we felt like it. They are all beautiful and well worth the stop in Northland, so you really can’t go wrong.
Test Your Hiking Skills At Kairara Rocks
This is by far one of the best day hikes to do in Northland, but it’s not easy; with 13 km there and back, it took us 6 hrs to complete this hike. Given the terrain of this hike and the climb at the end, it’s not one for novice hikers and best attempted by hikers with some backcountry experience. The views out to Whangaparāoa Harbour from the top of Kaiaraara rocks are breathtaking, but you really do have to work for those views! To reach the top, you’ll need to climb up a near-vertical rock face. Your only aid to get up there is a fixed metal rail. It’s not for the faint of heart! Nathan found this climb to be one of the highlights of the entire trail. Tiff, on the other hand, almost didn’t attempt it. If it weren’t for her fear of missing out on the views, she wouldn’t have gone up. It was so worth the scary climb, though.
There is no parking at the start of the track, so you’ll need to pay $5 for a spot at the nearby private parking just off Campbell Road. The track out to the Kaiaraara rocks is rather technical, with some muddy, slippery inclines and two stream crossings that you really need to take your boots off for. It is, however, a stunning walk, even before you get to the views at the top of the rocks. The Kaiaraara rocks themselves are of great cultural significance to the Ngātiwai people, so please respect their request to not eat or drink on the rocks themselves. There is a lovely day hut at the bay just before you start the climb up to the rocks, which is the perfect place to have a picnic lunch by the water.
Wander The Quarry Gardens
The main reason we visited the Quarry Gardens was to see the waterfall here. We were on a waterfall quest to see all of Northland’s waterfalls and couldn’t miss this one! We didn’t really think about the gardens that much before getting here, and we almost didn’t come because of the entry fee. We are so glad we didn’t let that stop us, though! The cost is $10 per adult. On the website it says this is a “donation”, but you can’t get in without paying it. It was worth the cost, though, as the gardens are beautiful with lots of sculptures and meandering paths through beautiful plants and flowers.
They really lean into the quarry roots with some cool repurposing of some tunnels, the waterfall that tumbles into the man-made lake leftover from the mining and some interactive displays. The “weaving bridge” was a favourite of mine (Tiff); it’s aimed at kids, but I had fun weaving some of the garden off-cuts provided onto the bridge to make a little heart. It’s a cool way to get kids excited about nature and to use the pruning from the garden before it gets made into compost, etc. It’s a great way to spend a morning or afternoon wandering the gardens and having a little fun along the way.
Please Leave No Trace
As always, when out in nature, be sure to practise leave no trace. Anything that goes into the park with you comes out as well (this includes apple cores and any type of food scraps). Be sure to keep to the trails so you don’t disturb the fragile ecosystems off the trail. This is particularly important in Northland, as the kauri trees are very susceptible to disease transferred from dirty gear to their roots. Most hikes in Northland will have a shoe and gear cleaning station at the start of the trail to prevent the spread of dieback to kauri. Please use these when you enter and leave the trail. Not only does it protect the trees, it helps your gear last longer too!
Please leave rocks, sticks and plants as you find them. Please don’t take anything but photographs and leave with nothing extra but memories. We like to go one step further on leave no trace by making sure we pick up any rubbish we see along the trail; sometimes people slip up and forget to pick up after themselves, or things get accidentally forgotten. If you see something that doesn’t belong and are equipped to pick it up and correctly dispose of it, please do!
To help you leave no trace as you travel around the region of Northland, we have a few blog posts for you to read! We share our tips on how to pack for an eco-conscious day hike and what to do on the trails to protect the land you are hiking on. It’s always good to know whose land you are on too! The region of Northland has 9 iwi with tribal boundaries within the area. Knowing who’s land you are on is vital in ensuring you can respect the wishes of the land owners.
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